Beachcomber Magazine 02

thelighttouch.Thecuttingedge.No frills,nola-di-dah,justthesparkling subject,honest,hardworkingandplain speaking.Theaciditygivesstructure,just likeaconductor’sbaton,thedancing teacher’shelpfulhints.Andthusitwas thatthekaffirlimeenteredintothe songofaworldofmixedcultures,of wanderers.Afarcryfromaninsipid, timid,sedentarywayoflife. Andthus,inMauritius,thekaffirlimeisnow partofthefamily.Alarge,welcoming family.FoodspeaksChinese,Indian, Creole,andEuropeanandAfricanlan- guages.Spicy,slow-cookedsauces– watchthemdance!Here’sthevindaloo withitsmustard,vinegar,onionsand spice.Therougailwithitstomatoes, onion,garlic,ginger,spiceandofcourse driedkaffirlimeleaves;chutneys, curries,casseroles,seafood,octopus (ouriteinMauritianCreole).Wecan smellitalready:azest,adashoflime therejusttotemptus. Thiscolourfuldance,whereallthefruits andvegetablesunderthesunjostlefor attention,showshowcompletelywe belongtothisworldandwhatwehave chosentorememberofit.Mauritian cuisinenowhasitsplaceinthesewell- thought-outgastronomies,shimmering,  O ncewasatimewhentheworld musthavebeenstill.Almost immobile.Peoplestayedat homealltheirlives.Theremusthave beenagreatsilence.Thewindsserved nopurpose.Itwascertainlywhenmen becamehunter-gatherersthatthey begantomovetheboundaries,lengthen theflightoftheirarrows,enlargetheir territories,extendtheirborders,their limits.Inotherwords,eatorbeeaten. Thingsmovedfast,thentheyslowed down,thennothinghappened.Then suddenlythingsstartedmovingagain. Inthe16th century,anewraceofexplo- rerscombinedtrade,piracyandreligion withalittlesparkofmadness.Commis- sionedandfinancedbyprincesand kings,theyundertooktoredrawthe world,todiscovertheAmericasand theIndiesinagloriousconfusion.Atthetimespicesenjoyedunbounded admiration.Theypossessedallvirtues, andevenembodiedwealth,inthecase ofpepper,knownasblackgold.Fruitand vegetablesenjoyedthesamewindow ofopportunity.Thusbegananincredible commerceinthisunpredictablechemis- try.Seavoyagesbroughtakindofreincar- nation:codfromthecoldnorthseas tookonasecondleaseoflifeinthe Mediterraneanwhensalted.Andwhat ofchocolate,tomatoes,potatoesor coffee?TheycametoEuropefrom SouthAmericaandcametobeknown andlovedbyeveryone,evennow. MAURITIUS, MORE THAN A REFUGE Thesamecanbesaidforthekaffirlime. Ithadlingeredlanguorouslyonthe IndonesianislandofSumbawa,tothe eastofBali,intheSundaIslandschain, intheMoluccanSea.Sailorswerequick toappreciatethisdenselittlelime,with itsdarkgreengnarledpeel,solidand energising.ItwasPierrePoivrewho, inthelate18thcentury,broughtitover theIndianOceantoMauritius. Thereitfoundmorethanarefuge,it discoveredavocation.Forinaddition tothejuiceofthislime,thedriedleaves andthezestareusedinmyriadways. Itsaromasareintense.Itthereforefound itsplaceinmanyMauritiandishes.It’s nosecretthatalldishesneedatouch ofacidity.Ittakespretentiousdishes downanotchandaddsabitoflifeand goodcheer.Withkaffirlimes,themara- casplaymorebrightly,theskyisbri- ghtertoo.It’sliketheinvisibleelement, theringmasterformingthevitallink betweenartistandspectator.Ituses the Beachcomber hothouse on Fortier Island grows a few kaffir lime trees and shrubs. La serre de Beachcomber à l'îlot fortier abrite une poignée d’arbres et d’arbustes combava.