Beachcomber Magazine 03

FINE CUISINE THE ART OF TASTE 84 “A GREAT RECIPE HAS THE PROPENSITY TO WIDEN RATHER THAN SHRINK THE HORIZON.” « C’EST LE PROPRE D’UNE GRANDE RECETTE QUE D’ASSEMBLER POUR ÉLARGIR ET NON RÉDUIRE L’HORIZON. » pride of place in the centre of the plate, and admits of a few discreet garnishes – pansy petals, a sprinkling of spice and a sprig of thyme... Red snapper is no snob, and willingly accepts company. But too much would be a crowd. That is why the christophine – or chouchou – sprouts (as leafy vegetables), appear discreetly on the plate, together with our prawns with cumin, their antennae erect, and, to add a bit of a crunch, the dish’s musical dimension, an ultra-thin slice of bread spread with melted butter and baked. In general, when this is placed delicately on the starboard side of the plate, you can’t keep your fingers away, you can’t help picking it up: that is the tactile dimension of the dish. THE MAN AND THE SEA Chef Puresh chooses his snappers when the suppliers come in the early morning to present their wares. The varieties change with the seasons, and the red snapper is excellent from October to January. Yet, whatever the season, Nived Puresh loves walking along the beach (here we are again!), and talking to the fisher- men. If the fish is to his liking – plump, sturdy, and orangey red – the deal is on, and that very evening, the fish shines pearly white on the plates. The chef at Victoria Beachcomber is rather like a great writer. He does not impose, but he is there in the background if necessary. If your children want a simpler fish, he will prepare a simple pasta dish but always with fish. But other people can enjoy the pan-fried red snapper at any time of day: that’s how good- natured it is. And if you would like a wine to go with it, the chef’s advice is clear: a fruity white. A dish is also more fully appreciated when eaten in just the right setting. And what a setting here! At the Horizon restaurant, our hospitable chef recommends that, to make the most of his red snapper, you should ask the maître d’hôtel to reserve you one of the tables laid out on the beach, with only the endless lagoon for company.  D errière ce plat se cache son auteur, le chef Nived Puresh, mauricien pur sucre, arpentant les plages de son enfance, admirant les vagues et pactisant avec les pêcheurs. Tout cela est en réverbération dans sa recette de vieille poêlée… ÉLARGIR L’HORIZON La vieille est un poisson tout simple et populaire sur l’île Maurice. Ce type de mérou connaît même plusieurs espèces. On peut ainsi aussi bien pêcher des « vieilles coquettes », des vieilles à taches rouges, ananas, balayette, étoilée, abeille et même des « petites vieilles ». Le chef Puresh connaît bien son poisson. C’est celui de l’enfance où l’on cuisinait le poisson en version tablée familiale: ragoût, curry… Il en a gardé le goût, l’esprit, mais l’a doté d’une esthétique plus contemporaine. La vieille trouve ici ses lettres de noblesse. Grâce aux épices qui se plaisent à tarauder les sauces aux oursins et les crevettes. On y retrouvera le cumin, venant klaxonner autour des chairs tendres et immaculées,  © Photograph BEYOND Photogrpahy ltd