Litchis, a tough nut WITH A TENDER HEART LITCHI , LE PETIT DUR AU CŒUR TENDRE Before we eat a piece of fruit, we like it to tell us a story, a bit of history. It’s only good manners, after all. With litchi you can sit comfortably – it has a lot to say. Avant de les dévorer nous aimons que nos fruits préférés aient un minimum de conversation, un brin d’histoire, un peu de tenue quoi. Avec le litchi, vous pouvez vous asseoir quelques instants. Il a du répondant. BY FRANÇOIS SIMON Litchis hail from the mists of time. Curiously, history can forget the odd thousand years here or there. Was it 4000 years ago? 2000? Historians are undecided, and quite frankly, who cares? Who could possibly argue over a fruit that is no bigger than a chocolate truffle? In any event, as usual, they are believed to originate in China, where litchi trees were found in the south, in Guangdong and Sichuan provinces. They were a favourite delicacy among emperors and their imperial wives, who sent out messengers day and night, just so that their royal taste buds could feast first thing in the morning on those pearls of sweetness. The Chinese even have an expression: “quick as a litchi gatherer”. And as soon as anyone mentions the fruit, we think of its grape-like, silky beige-rose aspect. A PEACEFUL FRUIT Like all spices, these fruits, sought after because they are rare, soon found their niche, immediately helped by the criss-crossing of the seasons. If, for us, they are an alltoo-brief guest of our end-of-year festivities, it’s simply because that’s when they’re at their peak in the southern hemisphere. There it is high summer, while we are burying our noses in our thick scarves. That is why, once again, Mauritius is asked to the front of the class to regale us with its long lineage. Litchis were imported there, as in the West Indies, in the late 18th century; or more precisely in 1760 by the French botanist Jean-François Charpentier de Cossigny de Palma. At that time trade had visions of grandeur. People traded like they played billiards, French style, with no consideration for their fellow humans. People swapped, exchanged, the rarer the better, eventually intoxicating even the most advanced civilisations. How many august empires have been placed in an awkward position to quench the never-ending thirst of these traders? You know the list: China, Japan, and so on. But don’t imagine litchis wearing a black patch over one eye and brandishing a sabre. No, litchis are a peaceful fruit. All they require is heat and humidity, and they’ll do the rest. They soon found a home in Mauritius: they grow in places like Montagne Longue, though less so in the cooler areas like Curepipe, Vacoas and Grand Bassin. AND BENEFACTOR In addition to harsh weather conditions, litchis fear the “Roussette Noire”. What’s that, you ask? It also goes by the name of flying fox. You’ve got it: bats. And the only way to keep them at bay is to carefully place a net over the trees. This little sphere is as tough on the outside as it is suave and accommodating inside. It’s kind of milky, liquid. This is perhaps why litchis are used in Chinese medicine. People love them for their warmth, their sweet and sour taste. They quench excessive thirst, and relieve toothache due to “wind fire”, and postpartum swelling. They directly affect the spleen, which “governs thought”, but also concentration and memory. If litchis are often eaten for dessert, it’s because they are reluctant to dominate. They can be eaten in isolation, but are also at ease in a crowd, willingly joining in a delicious fruit salad. Their mere presence shows someone has made a culinary effort. Flexible by nature, litchis can be used in sorbets but also liven up a fish carpaccio, or be cooked with poultry, or even with game. They add a benevolent counterpoint. Because this fruit is ingenuous, altruistic, even. It’s a fruit that confides. ©Gettyimages/dianyismirilda
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